Chef Tatung's

The interiors of Chef Tatung's, a specialized Filipino restaurant tucked in the quiet suburbs of Taguig. Photo by Josephine Arce

These days, it's hard to find a unique dining experience in Manila. All we have are a rehash of the same, tired, and old recipes, or franchises of global fastfood chains that taste the same wherever you go. As a result, it's easy to become jaded when it comes to local food.

But a certain restaurant is changing all that, an elegant joint tucked in the middle of a genteel neighborhood, surrounded by acacia and bamboo trees away from the hustle and bustle of Metro Manila. Time and again I had to remind myself that I am still in the developing megapolis of Taguig, and not in the peaceful provinces of Baguio or Tagaytay. It could be the pleasant weather, but I think it's interiors of the restaurant, with its rich browns and warm woods, and antique Filipino furniture.

The restaurant is Chef Tatung's, a specialized place run by the effervescent chef who shares the name of his restaurant. What began as a home-based affair in Quezon City that served a small group of friends and neighbors became a full-blown business, serving dozens of guests at a time. Today, it owns its space at the Acacia Estates, Levi Mariano Avenue, Brgy. Ususan, Taguig City.

The extensive collection of Filipino food at Chef Tatung's. Photo by Josephine Arce

I was able to try his Sunday buffet with some friends from When In Manila. We were overwhelmed by the staggering number of Filipino food, an impressive array of choices that spanned the many islands of the Philippines. There were his staples: the lumpiang ubod in flavored crepes, the honey-glazed slow-roasted lechon belly, lechon Cebu, the warm Tsoknut chocolate cake, and the pichi-pichi with quezo de bola.

What my plate looks like when I go to a buffet. The lechon Cebu is on the lower-left hand side of the plate, and it is a revelation

Now, my strategy in buffet dining has always been to get a little bit of everything, that way I can take in everything without getting full. But my experience at Chef Tatung's was different. As soon as I had a bite of the lechon Cebu, I found myself scrambling for more. I think I had three servings of the dish, and I patiently waited for the waiters to bring more of the stuff. The meat was succulent and juicy, and the skin had a satisfying crunch that exploded in my mouth. The dish did not come with any sauce, but the second I smelled the faint whiff of lemongrass, I knew I wasn't going to need one. It was a favorite among the When In Manila team and we eagerly waited for replenishments.

The rest of the meats had a satisfying consistency. Turns out that Chef Tatung prepares everything from scratch, and uses traditional methods. That's why when you take a bite of the honey-glazed slow-roasted pork belly, you're getting the actual experience of a dish that was cooked in a brick oven for six hours.

The poqui poqui "lasagna." Photo by Josephine Arce

In Chef Tatung's, there's no space for preservatives or additives. He stays true to heirloom recipes and does not reinvent it or deconstruct it, opting instead to glorify the original way the dishes were cooked. However, the poqui poqui did get a new face. Chef Tatung turned it into a kind of lasagna, adding a thick and delectable layer of cheese on top of the grilled eggplant. It was heavenly, it was sublime, it was something I had over and over again.

Another dish that received a "westernization" was the lumpiang ubod in flavored crepes. Now, we've always enjoyed our lumpiang ubod in the traditional flavorless wrapper but Chef Tatung updated this by wrapping the coconut pith, vegetables, and tofu in a pandan, ube (purple yam), and egg crepe. The wrap only hinted at the ube, thus not cloying your mouth with sweetness but preparing you for the playful delights the chef will present you with during the main course.

If you're not sure what kind of adobo to get, get the adobo sampler to try all the choices

Chef Tatung is also known for his adobo sampler, a dish consisting of four variations of the classic Filipino dish. Chef Tatung serves it individually, but because of the number of variants, he has decided to put it all on one plate (with dividers, of course), so that guests can try a bit of everything and decide which one to get.

The adobo sampler is composd of the yellow chicken adobo, derived from the Batangas way of cooking with it with ginger; the chicken-pork adobong Ilonggo with annatto seeds and liver; the lengua adobo with olive oil, roasted garlic, and green olives; and the adobo Bisaya, which was marinated in garlic, vinegar, and bayleaves, and slow-cooked in lard. This last one is my favorite.

Desserts!

Perhaps the highlight of the meal (any meal involving me, actually) are the desserts. In keeping up with Chef Tatung's Filipino theme, the dessert table provided the best offerings. Now, these aren't just your regular desserts slathered with sugar. These are probably the richest and creamiest desserts I've had. The leche flan was a revelation, served frozen, and it was the creamiest I've ever had. The warm Tsoknut chocolate cake was good, too, but I quickly forgot about it when I had the pichi pichi with quezo de bola.

I'm not really sure how to describe it because I've only tried the pichi pichi Amber offers and I love it, especially with cheese. But Chef Tatung takes it on a whole different level. The pichi pichi itself is soft, almost fluffy, and like eating a cloud. But when you add the richness of the melted quezo de bola, it provides an interesting texture that made my eyes roll in delight. I'm not sure how many plates I had, but suffice to say that the waiters replenished the dessert twice after I started hoarding.

Chef Tatung's is that restaurant that provides good food and a good atmosphere. Its almost-hidden location makes it an ideal place for intimate meals with loved ones, and the interiors can add drama to any meal. The place can seat a hundred people but it feels cozy. For the best experience I suggest the Sunday buffet, so you can try all of the chef's best dishes amidst a calm and relaxing day.

Otherwise, the restaurant is open daily for ala carte meals from 11AM-11PM.

How to get to Chef Tatung's

Art in the Park 2013 x Brixton Block Party

Last Saturday, I was at the Jaime Velasquez Park in Salcedo Village, Makati for the seventh Art in the Park. I wrote an extensive feature for Supreme, and I wanted to thank the exhibitors personally for helping me with the article. I also wanted to see what the 40 participating galleries had to offer, so off I went even if the skies didn't look too friendly for an outdoor affair.

Art in the Park is a project of Trickie Lopa, Lisa Ongpin Periquet, and the Museum Foundation of the Philippines. Lopa and Periquet also launched the first Art Fair Philippines, which I wrote about on my blog and for Supreme. Art in the Park aims to remove the intimidating air of the art world by bringing it to the non-threatening atmosphere of a public park and capping the price of all art works to P30,000. This year saw 40 of the best galleries exhibiting the works of both emerging and established artists.

Maybe it was because I came earlier this year, but this year's artworks were more provocative, more intense. If I had to choose my favorite galleries, it would have to be Vinyl on Vinyl, Secret Fresh, and Silverlens. These three seem to have their identities down pat - from Vinyl's and Secret Fresh's crazy and colorful toys and artworks to Silverlens' serious and brooding pieces.

The galleries were wonderfully curated, representing every school of thought from modernism to pop art to abstract. Art in the Park is one of my most anticipated events of the year because it is so inclusive. You don't need to be an art patron or a gazillionaire to enjoy art and purchase it.

Speaking of purchases, I bought a print from JP Cuison at Secret Fresh. It has always been one of my dreams to own one of his prints, and I finally got one for a very good price. Cuison is known for his posters,  and his most prominent is that of the Cinemalaya favorite Ang Babae Sa Septic Tank. His style is reminiscent of those old comics and I like the way he uses color. I plan to have my print framed after Holy Week. I'm so excited!

I was with my friend Stefan, and he introduced me to stylist Melvin Mojica. Such a great guy. We had a few glasses of white wine and talked about art, food, and fashion.

We soon went on our separate ways, but we all agreed to meet at Brixton for Heima's Brixton Block Party. The cult lifestyle store has opened a branch in Pasig and is celebrating its launch together with the release of Ang Nawawala's soundtrack on vinyl. I had a slight buzz because I downed my last glass of wine, so I was feeling good about myself and my purchase. So good.... that I left my camera in the cab.

It was so frustrating because the camera has been with me for only three months, and I bought it because I lost my previous camera. I'm really careful with my things, but sometimes shit hits the fan and this happens. I would like to believe that the loss of my first camera wasn't really my fault, but this one was an act of carelessness and I hate myself for being so relaxed. What hurts more is that I bought the camera with my own money. That definitely took away the great buzz I had from Art in the Park.

I met Nikko and we had a quick dinner at Edgy Veggy Cafe (also at Brixton). They're a cozy restaurant that proves being vegetarian doesn't have to be boring. According to Nikko, Edgy Veggy is owned by Carlos Celdran's wife, Denise. I had the Korean, a large plate containing spicy bibimbap rice, tofu mushroom bulgogi, and salad. The flavors were exquisite, and the combination of rice, bulgogi, and salad provided an explosion in my mouth that countered the depression I had with my camera. The dish was both light and heavy - I became full but not the horrible kind of full where you just want to lock yourself in the restroom and cry and purge.

Heima's new store was lovely. If you're familiar with the store's aesthetic, their Brixton branch is just that, except more polished. The shop doubles as a showroom, with gorgeous couches tastefully arranged around the store. Their standard products - books, stationery, prints, and home furnishings are all there. The store was packed to the hilt with friends, supporters, and fans of the store.

To celebrate the release of Ang Nawawala's soundtrack, DJ Toti Dalmacion of Groove Nation and Terno Recordings, Pulso, Hanna + Gabi with Outerhope, Pedicab, Tarsius, Jazz Nicolas and Kelvin Yu, Ebe Dancel, Daydream Cycle, and Buboy Garovillo performed. All the performers played really great sets, but what stood out for me was Pulso's. They played really great instrumentals, but the best thing about the band was Robby Mananquil, who aged really well. The group I was with were practically creaming, and I can't say I wasn't one of them.



* Art in the Park photos from their Facebook page
* Heima interior photos from their blog
* Heima crowd photo from their Facebook page

The teppanyaki station at Marriott Cafe

Last Thursday, Nikko invited me for dinner to Marriott Cafe in Marriott Hotel, for a blogger's event to unveil its latest addition, a teppanyaki station. According to executive chef Meik Brammer (who I suspect is Swedish based on his accent), it is the only hotel with a teppanyaki grill as part of the buffet line.

Teppanyaki, a Japanese style of preparing food, uses an iron griddle (teppan) to grill (yaki) a wide variety of proteins from beef and chicken to shrimp and vegetables. The station is managed by Chef Manuel, whose shy demeanor masks a fierce talent for cooking and kitchen exhibition.

I have been to Marriott Cafe once, when my mom considered applying as a member when it first opened, but it was my first time to eat there. The teppanyaki station was one of the best stations, considering Nikko and I tried most of the offerings. The beef, tender and marbled, is US choice, and was perfect with the stir-fried rice and special sauces. There was this particular yellow sauce that I liked, but I was so into the dish that I forgot to check.

Being Japanese, I couldn't resist the sushi section, which regularly replenished its selection. They offered fresh salmon sushi and sashimi, tuna, ebi, and California makis for those who aren't as adventurous. I believed I had four servings of the salmon sushi, eating one serving entirely by hand. Nikko is not a fan of sushi but I'm glad that he enjoyed the salmon. The tuna sashimi, not so much. Baby steps, after all.

I also enjoyed the rib-eye steak with peppercorn sauce. Served medium-rare, it's perfect, especially the outer layer of the meat. I wanted to have another serving but when faced with the teppanyaki station, the Chinese section, and the dessert section, it was a wise idea to pass on another slice.

Perhaps my favorite dish of the night was the hazelnut nutella gelato, a concoction prepared by the house chefs. It's creamy, flavorful, and light, and I still find myself craving for it days after the event. It was so delicious.

I got to meet the other bloggers, who I admire for their consistency in maintaining their blogs. I find that I have a hard time maintaining mine since I started writing for The Philippine Star, but their enthusiasm, including Nikko's, inspired me to be more active. After all, my blog has a heritage, it started in 2006.

A special thanks to Vannah Santiago of Marriott Hotel, who was so kind in accommodating everyone, including myself. She's acquainted with my section of the Star and also knows my boss.

For a truly gastronomical treat, it would be a great idea to drop by Marriott Cafe and try the teppanyaki station. Leave some space for the hazelnut nutella gelato, it's going to be worth it.

For inquiries and reservations, call 988-9999.

Photos taken from here and here.

MV Logos Hope x Toribox x Holly's Coffee

The MV Logos Hope

Last Tuesday, Nikko and I went to the MV Logos Hope, the world's largest floating book fair docked at the South Harbor. The MV Logos Hope is a travelling book store and library that carries 5,000 books covering a wide range of topics from art, medicine, self-help, sports, travel, fiction, and many more.

The countries the MV Logos Hope has traveled to

 It is run by 408 members from 45 different countries, all volunteering without pay to "bring knowledge, help and hope to the people of the world." Eight of them are Filipinos. Aside from selling books (which are incredibly affordable), the ship aims to help communities around the world by providing aid and relief.

The ship has visited several regions, including countries in Northern Europe, the Caribbean, West Africa, the Mediterranean, the Arabian Peninsula, and South Asia.

The books

The selection wasn't as staggering as I thought. I expected a whole shipload of books, but the selections only took half a deck and it was very small. But what was impressive was that they were dirt-cheap. If the fair had more fiction, I probably would have cleaned out the shelves, or at least my wallet. Art books can be bought for P200-P500, while three textbooks are sold for P500, with a free bag.

The ship is run by a Christian organization so there were a lot of Bibles, inspirational books and Christian music both playing in the intercom and being sold on the rack. 

Essential Modern Art, P500

Gardening, P200 

 Art Deco, P400

I got myself a copy of Essential Modern Art, a timeline of the best pieces with a brief background of the artist. It's very informative and a must-have for a beginner. It has entries on Salvador Dali, Pablo Picasso, Andy Warhol, and Jackson Pollock, among many others. I also got a book on gardening, which I'm planning to use to build my very own garden.

For my birthday, Nikko got me a copy of Art Deco: The Golden Age of Graphic Art and Illustration, a history of the movement, which I admire for its flirty lines and the sexy use of shapes and colors.

The three books cost P1,100, a low price considering the Art Deco and modern art books are large and hardbound.

The International Cafe

After our extensive shopping (Nikko got around six books), we hung out for a bit at the International Cafe, which isn't as impressive as it sounds. But it's run by a friendly Russian and they had good products you can't find here, like Fanta. The staff were all friendly, and I got to chat with a Chinese girl about my trip to Shanghai last summer.

The ship will be in the South Harbor until March 13, 2012. The South Harbor is located near Manila Hotel. It is open from Tuesdays to Saturdays at 10AM to 9.30PM and Sundays at 1PM to 9.30PM.

For dinner, we wanted to go to CBD at the Ayala Triangle, but the traffic caused by the INC prayer rally was so intense that we changed our mind. The trip going to the ship was just as bad and we wound our way throughout Manila, even going through Intramuros. There were so many people that it was hard to navigate around the city. We decided to have dinner instead at Toribox near DLSU. It's a Japanese place that sells really good karaage pops for less than P100. The servings are also enormous so we enjoyed our meal.

For dessert we went to Holly's Coffee, this upscale-looking coffee shop along Taft. The interiors are warm and cozy, and the staff were especially accommodating. The waffles were divine.

Battalia Royale x Lugang

Battalia Royale, a loose adaptation of Koushun Takami's Battle Royale

This week, Sipat Lawin Ensemble staged a production of Battalia Royale, a loose adaptation of Koushun Takami's novel Battle Royale. The book (and the successful adaptation) is about a totalitarian Japanese state where a group of students are kidnapped and placed in an island, with the mission to kill everyone else and be the last one standing. Staged at the CCP Promenade from February 21-23, it had a very limited run of three performances. I watched its premiere show and was blown away by the complexity of it all.

The storylines in Battalia Royale

Battalia Royale is a fresh and unconventional approach to theater, involving its audience as the plot unfolds. There are over five stages, and viewers must participate as the actors move from one area to another, quickly following them to keep abreast of the story. At one point, the viewers must pick between three simultaneous scenes, each with a different background but the same premise: kill or be killed.

The final scene - though I've heard every performance has a different winner

And yes, it is bloody. In the last scene, one guy was shot and blood splattered on a Nursing student's skirt.

I was a little confused at first, because there were two groups running off in different directions, but it was only because I was late. I eventually got the hang of things and the two groups melded into one, which made it difficult to watch if you aren't quick-moving, thanks to the overwhelming turnout of the crowd. But I was impressed with the rotation of the scenes, which went like clockwork. All the ushers knew where to guide the massive crowd, and I even saw director JK Anicoche ushering a group.

The show is open to the public and is pay-what-you-can, which means that no one has an excuse to watch this great show. There will be another run this March 9-11, though I heard that tickets are already sold out as of yesterday. You may still check their Facebook page for updates in case they open more shows. This time, they're staging it in an abandoned school in Cubao.

The actors were pretty good, too, and I recognized some people I knew, mostly from Dulaang Perpetual. The other actors are from Mapua Tekno Teatro, students from NU, Youtube performer Kevin Vitug, Marco Viana, and Bodjie Pascua, who played class adviser and game master. Pascua is best remembered as a cast member of child show Batibot. My favorite was this guy who played Julius. He had a certain angst that I found believable.

Music was provided by Teresa Barrozo (Zombadings, Shake, Rattle, and Roll 13: Rain, Rain, Go Away, and Kinatay) and Radioactive Sago Project. In fact, on its last day, Lourd de Veyra came to provide live vocals.

The beautiful light fixtures

I was eager to watch the last performance on Thursday and see Lourd, but I came late again, and security was tighter. There was a line and they didn't let everyone in at the same time so Nikko and I opted to go to SM Mall of Asia for dinner instead. We ate at Lugang Cafe, the new Chinese restaurant specializing in Taiwanese cuisine. They're known for their xiao long bao, a Shanghainese dumpling dish with soup inside. I was impressed at its authenticity, having tried the dish when I went to Shanghai last summer. The interiors were opulent (which I loved) and the staff were accomodating beyond belief. The restaurant is almost perfect and I'm dying to go back and dine again. Being around the avant-garde furniture is already an experience in itself.

The gorgeous Tom Hardy, looking delicious as ever

Capped the night by watching This Means War, a funny movie starring Reese Witherspoon, Chris Pine, and Tom Hardy about two best friend CIA agents who like the same girl and are trying to detract each other using their vast resources. Rotten Tomatoes gave it a bad rating, but I thought it was hilarious. And Tom Hardy..... my gosh. He was delicious. Lugang Cafe can serve him on a dish.

Chimara, Becky Night Out, Art in the Park

This week has been very interesting because I experienced a lot of new things. I've always been a fan of adventure so it was like an adrenaline rush doing so many novel things. Unfortunately, I kept forgetting my camera so I wasn't able to capture any of the events. I promised myself to bring my camera always and record everything I see and experience. That way, I can also experiment on my photography, which is slowly becoming a little hobby.

The incredibly yummy tofu chips from Chimara (photo taken from here)

My week began on Thursday, when I went to Greenbelt for dinner with my friend Christian. Yes, my week began on the 16th because I spent Valentine's at home, writing. I never got a chance to celebrate Valentine's and this year was no different. My friend Christian, who works in marketing, invited me to dinner at Chimara, this neo-vegan restaurant in Greenbelt 3. I've heard of the place when model Raya Mananquil mentioned that she likes the food but it was my first time this week. I thought the Omega 3 wrap was okay, but I instantly fell in love with the tofu chips, their signature snack. It's a healthier alternative to regular chips, packed with protein, and is bursting with flavor. The minute I got home, I craved for the tofu chips in white cheddar and thought of when I could have the deliciousness of it again. Dinner with Christian went great, he's a funny guy even though he takes life very seriously.

The lovely crowd at Bed Manila

 DJ Toy Armada, arguably one of the cutest DJs in Manila (photos from here)

On Friday, I went with Nikko and Jan to the Big Becky Night Out at Bed, Malate to celebrate Becky Nights, the overnight podcast hit featuring makeup artist Jake Galvez, stylist Matt Gozun, hair expert Buern Rodriguez, and Globe Asiatique VP Divine Lee. I was really excited to go. I haven't been to the club in ages and the place holds a special place in my heart because that's where I started clubbing at 15. I'm practically a veteran in the gay club scene, and I thought it was important I bring Jan because he recently outed himself and I wanted to expose him to as many cultural events as possible, including a night at a gay club. Bed was packed and I had a fantastic time.

I was forced to join a certain game during the program, but being a guy who rarely says no, I went up to join four others. The game was to perform your sexiest dance to a Madonna song and I was mortified. I love Madonna, but the thought of being up on stage in front of hundreds of people is terrifying. I was embarrassed but what the hell, when you're up there, you just have to give it your all. So I danced like a whore. I took my cue from Madonna and ripped off my blazer and put my hand in my crotch. I lost the game but some guys I met later told me that my moves were really 'different.' I'm not quite sure what they meant but I have no regrets.

The Hot Mess with Jake Galvez and Divine Lee (photo taken from here)

Me and Jan with my favorite member of Becky Nights, Buern Rodriguez

The three of us had access to the VIP room so we spent most of the night there. I really wanted to go down and dance my ass off (mainly to continue my choreography) but Nikko and Jan insisted we stayed upstairs. We did get to hang out with Buern, who took a liking to Jan, and get tons of drinks, so I was pretty buzzed by the end of the night. Met some guys, too, who were really nice and offered to share their drinks. One of them was this teenage crossdresser named The Hot Mess (at least that's how she introduced herself to us), a lovely creature with a 23-inch waistline.

The place really looks different from the last time I went, and it looks world-class now. There are three floors, with the third floor reserved for an open-air deck. The ground-floor restrooms were awesome. Right in front of the urinals is a lit aquarium facing another pair of urinals. So while you're doing your business, you can see another guy doing his. Fortunately (or unfortunately, depending on your level of risque), the aquarium ends at the waist area so you can't see any goodies.

Got home by 6AM. God, I miss my partying days.

The event's poster

On Saturday, I met up with Nikko, Jan, and Mitzi (one of the paper's talented writers) for Art in the Park, an annual art fair held in a Makati park to make art more accessible and affordable, capping its pieces to P30,000. Over 40 exhibitors attended, many of them prestigious galleries selling work from their best artists. Some of my favorites were: Secret Fresh, Delirium [Art + Design], Vinyl on Vinyl, and TutoK. I was of course attracted to more avant-garde works, but sadly, the pieces were still expensive even though they were less than P30,000. I did have a great time looking around and talking to some of the artists.

The Romeo Lee notebook I got from Delirium [Design + Art]. The painting is called Number 8

The jawbone ashtray, designed by Leeroy New (photo from here)

The Sacred Heart Lamp, designed by Leeroy New (photo from here)

I wrote an article about the event for that day's The Philippine Star, and I featured Delirium as one of the galleries to look out for. Their works are surreal pieces from artists like Leeroy New (who did Gaga's muscle dress for the cover of Marry The Night) and some of my personal favorites are the Sacred Heart lamp and the jawbone ashtray. I showed them my article - frankly, I'm still the look-ma-no-hands kind of writer, and they gave me a handmade notebook with a Romeo Lee painting on the cover for my effort. I was really shocked but accepted it anyway, showering them with thanks and all kinds of appreciation.

That night, I vowed to buy one important piece next year. My obsession with art is steadily growing and I'm about to hit the phase of wanting to own a piece. After that, we had dinner at 8065 Bagnet, a hole-in-the-wall joint in Estrella Street that has the best bagnet I've ever tasted. I had the kare-kare bagnet, and they don't skimp on the servings. The peanut sauce was really delicious and the prices are very competitive. Budget meals start at P110, but group dishes are around P190. Divine, divine, divine. We capped the night with dessert at Rocci's in Malugay Street, then headed straight home.